Ask anyone what Wisconsin is noted for, and chances are good they will reply, “Cheese.” While that is music to the ears of the folks at the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection (DATCP), there is another movement afoot: to beef up the state’s specialty meat processors, who produce an estimated 77 million pounds of meat and meat products annually. It’s a $12.3 billion state industry that for years has been in the golden shadow of the cheese market.
Far from a struggling step sister, the state’s meat industry employs 19,400 people statewide, and has state convention larger than the national convention. Now, it also will have the first specialty meat certification program in the nation.
Specialty meats include any type of meat that has been seasoned or changed — like bratwurst, bacon, summer sausage, jerky, custom roasts — where the meat crafter has done something to make it unique. Last October, with the help of U.S. Sen. Herb Kohl, the DATCP secured a $338,000 grant that paved the way for the formation of the Wisconsin Specialty Meat Development Center (SMDC). It was the brainchild of DATCP Livestock and Meat Specialist, Jeff Swenson, 42. “Wisconsin is the ‘cheese state,’ known for its specialty cheeses,” he said. “But we have nearly 300 meat processing facilities in the state making some of the best products in the country. It’s a well-kept secret. Our goal is to raise public awareness.”
At its helm is Bob Andorfer, 50, of Green Bay, Wis., who is devoting one day a week to the new start-up. Andorfer, an employee of Excaliber Seasonings, once owned a Bonduel, Wis. grocery store and has been active in the industry for over 20 years. He said he understands the importance of specialty sausages to the grocery business, and describes the typical processor as small, with about 10-15 employees.
While the nonprofit SMDC will have neither a budget nor employees — only volunteers, it does have a very defined, three-pronged mission: First, to develop the nation’s only Master Meat Crafter Training Program (in cooperation with the University of Wisconsin-Madison). The $2,500, two-year course will include several two-day training sessions, and graduates will receive accreditation as premiere sausage makers, as well as a master meat crafter seal they can display on packaging. Classes will begin in spring and enrollment is being handled by the UW-Extension.
“I believe that giving someone a certification that they’ve gone above and beyond to learn their industry will give them more confidence and provide an economic benefit,” said Andorfer. “Our industry has always been the quiet one. The majority of our processors are out there supporting 4-H, FFA … Still, when people talk Ag and Wisconsin, they think of cheese.”
Not that it’s an edgy rivalry. “On the contrary,” he said. “Wisconsin has a wealth of specialty industries — cheese, wine, beer, sausage. We’re hoping to [develop] synergies to help promote the state as a whole.”
Second, the SMDC will work with independent meat processors and sausage artisans to help them improve their businesses, whether that means assistance in business or product development, expansion, marketing, or developing a new product line. The goal is to work with 50 state meat processing plants initially, and over the course of three years, increase specialty meat sales by 15% statewide.
“We see the SMDC as an outreach center for small businesses to have access to more resources that might not otherwise be available to them.” But, he explained, the SMDC won’t provide any direct loans. “We’ll fund the research or consulting that will work with the processors.”
Third, a portion of the grant money is allowing Madison’s Shine Advertising to create a SMDC marketing strategy, including a Web site and online directory.
The new venture excites Larry Clark, 20-year owner of the Lodi Sausage Company. “It sounds like it will be a win-win for the meat processors,” he said. “I have a son in the business, and am interested in succession planning. Many meat processors may be good sausage makers or meat cutters, but they may not be so good at human resources, marketing, or succession planning. The [SMDC] can match processors with counselors to help them on their way.”
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